C70 Roof problems [Archive] - Volvo Owners Club Forum (2023)

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andrew_s46

Apr 8th, 2010, 22:36

Hi,

I'm here again asking advice regarding my C70!

My problem this time is;

The roof on my C70 goes up and down as it should, but for some reason today it has decided to skip a few steps and no longer chimes and lowers the windows at the start and no longer chimes and raises the windows at the end.

I have checked all the fuses and the windows work from the switch on the drivers door.

Anybody got any ideas - I have a feeling this may get £££££££!

Thanks in advance

andrew_s46

Apr 9th, 2010, 10:09

Hi,

Just a bit of an update.

I was trying the roof this morning in some hope that it may have put itself right. I have found that if i put the windows down, at the end of the roof cycle the are brought back up automatically - just no chime at the end.

Not sure if this is significant but thought it might help.

andy.h

Apr 9th, 2010, 19:13

Don't get me started with roof problems..................!!

I'm afraid all you can do is get a Volvo dealer to callibrate the roof. It sounds as though it has somehow become out of "synch". There is really nothing you can do. Just think yourself lucky that the roof still goes up and down as it should. As you can probably tell, mine does not :censored:

I hope this helps.

Andy

M D E

Apr 10th, 2010, 01:18

That problem sounds familiar !, mine does the same plus the two flaps do not lock down all of the time ... Fingers crossed it does not get worse (perhaps it's lack of use ?

kbt

Feb 15th, 2011, 13:25

So have any of you had your roof problems diagnosed by Volvo. I bought my second had 03 model from a trader 4 months ago and my roof now doesn't work. I've only had it down twice since I bought it. Volvo have told me it is the roof module that is broken and it will cost around £1500 to fix including labour and vat. I only paid £6k for it anyway. Has anyone else had similar problems or just me :-(

andrew_s46

Feb 15th, 2011, 16:21

Hi!

I have just came back to this today as my problem is still not sorted.

I did have mine checked out and was told it was the power window master switch pack that was causing the problem - I replaced it and my problem still exists - blank faces all round.

If your problem is defiantly the roof module I would just buy a tested second hand unit and fit it yourself (very easy) and then take it to volvo to be calibrated to your car.

Have you checked all the connections to the roof module? It is in the drivers rear quarter panel. You gain access via the boot (you will have to remove the boot carpet trim). Might be worth just checking to make sure no excessive moisture is there.

Clan

Feb 15th, 2011, 18:43

This is a specialised job . there are fault codes which guide to where the problem is , and regarding calibration , it doesnt alter unles a new component has been fitted and the roof has to be calibrated with the control module in the car and working the roof .
You know you ( or teh dealer ) can wind the roof up manualy ....

C70Carnut

Jun 5th, 2011, 10:31

Well, my hood works fine, but I've already had the rear window glued back into the hood (started to separate due to the australian heat). I think it may be starting to separate again. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

C70Carnut

Jun 5th, 2011, 10:49

Just turning on instant email notification.

MikeS100

Dec 24th, 2013, 17:33

Sorry to drag up an old thread, but my C70 does the same thing but also my roof fouls on the passenger side storage lid bump stop as it folds down. It's been suggested that the fault causing it to miss out some of the steps is also causing the roof to operate in the wrong order, which is then causing the fabric to rub. Just wondering if anyone else with the issue of the windows not lowering and the roof not chiming also noticed the roof rubbing? Or is this potentially something completely unrelated?

And does anyone know if I will cause any issues by stopping the roof while it is partially open? The manual says not to do this but I want to so I can have a closer look at the bump stop? It looks to be fairly substantial but I wondered if I might be able to bend it out of the way a bit so that it stops rubbing. Any thoughts?

Flingel

Dec 24th, 2013, 20:31

Mike,
My roof rubs on the passenger side tonneau stop.
Always has, although the stop had been cut down when we bought the car.
Didn't realise the problem was there until I replaced the stop to level the lid up.
Roof seems to function as it should, complete with dings and bongs.

Not sure if the car hasn't had a shunt on the NSR corner at some point.
When I changed the rear lights the Near Side was a PITA to fit, difficult to line up properly.
Not sure if related.

Frequently stopped roof mid cycle, to clean rear window, mask off when colouring/proofing with no issues.

HTH,
Terry.

MikeS100

Dec 24th, 2013, 23:34

Thanks for the reply. I've got no reason to suspect mine has had a rear end shunt but I must admit I did wonder if that was the issue. Have you managed to do anything to stop it rubbing? Mine seems to have worn very quickly in the few times I operated the roof since buying the car in April and in the end I was sticking gaffa tape on so it rubbed that instead of the fabric, but I would like to come up with a more permanent solution if possible.

Paul Verhaak

Jan 3rd, 2014, 11:52

My roof has given me problems of late. A week ago I opened the roof to air the car (as I have some seal problem) and then could not close it again. Checked the fuses, all ok. But, the fasten seatbelt sign and the rear window and mirror heating did not work either which would indicate a fuse problem.
I used the 2 tools to raise the roof manually (just before the rain started!) and once completely closed, the seatbelt lights plus heating worked again.
Yesterday I tried to open the roof again but only the part where the rear window is went up, the rest played dead. Could not close it and had to use the tool to do it manually. I have booked an appointment with the Volvo garage for the 16th...and unless someone has an explanation for this error, i am sure it will cost me some ££.

MikeS100

Jan 3rd, 2014, 19:18

There are so many sensors for the roof that your plan to take it to a dealer is probably your best bet, but be prepared to pay for it. My local dealer charged me £118 to diagnose the problem, and they initially mis-diagnosed it. Not sure about the seat belt warning but it is normal for the heated rear screen and mirrors to not work while the roof is open so I don't think you have any issues there. The fact that it won't close and only opened the cover sounds like it could well be a sensor somewhere that's gone, when it gets to the problem sensor it just stops to protect itself. Hopefully it's not the main module that's gone, but if you do end up replacing something you will then have to also pay approx £60 for a dealer to re-calibrate the roof :(

krussel

Jan 4th, 2014, 11:19

This is one thing that worries me with the C70 conv. The lack of possible self diagnoses concerning the workings of the roof = £££££ ;-(

MikeS100

Feb 16th, 2014, 11:13

Frequently stopped roof mid cycle, to clean rear window, mask off when colouring/proofing with no issues.

I'm going to have a look at 'modifying' the bump stop today so that means stopping the roof mid cycle. When you do this do you then carry on opening the roof afterwards so the cycle completes or do you just push the switch the other way to drop it back down?

Having spent £60 yesterday getting it recalibrate I'm now paranoid about throwing it out of sync again! Lol.

Flingel

Feb 17th, 2014, 10:21

Having spent £60 yesterday getting it recalibrate I'm now paranoid about throwing it out of sync again! Lol.

Sorry Mike, probably a bit late now!

I've had no problems with just returning to the closed position without completing the cycle.

The bump stops are quite east to adjust, they are effectively just a big rubber screw.
Just twist them to whichever position you need them in.

One thing I found is that they harden with age, so may not be as pliable as when new and may be prone to snapping.

I got a new pair from the dealers for under a tenner, I think.

Terry.

krussel

Feb 17th, 2014, 11:55

Having spent £60 yesterday getting it recalibrate I'm now paranoid about throwing it out of sync again! Lol.

I have stopped mine in mid cycle to clean out the storage area. It went back ok and closed.

Know what you mean though ;-/

MikeS100

Feb 17th, 2014, 20:48

Thanks guys. I tried adjusting the bump stop but it didn't help so I ended up cutting it back quite dramatically. It's still rubbing but nowhere near as bad as it was so hopefully it won't wear the roof anymore. Now all I need is to try and find an upholsterer that can repair the damaged area!

Tannaton

Mar 28th, 2015, 21:45

I'm digging up and old thread but I have a similar problem. Just bought a 2003 model T5 GT Convertible for a bit of a project. The roof goes up and down okay but the windows don't drop 5cm as they should and there is no "beep" when it closes. Also the rear heated window won't switch on which suggests to me that the "brains" of the car doesn't think the roof is up properly.

Plugged in VIDA and there were a few faults with the roof, implausible position, switch etc. Stupidly I cleared them thinking I would collect a new set by opening and closing the roof. No faults at all....

However it is saying that the Front lock rear micro switch is not active when all others are (see below). But reading the removal process for this switch it starts with "remove convertible fabric..." Also the "Switch Conv Up" was not active.

How hard can this be? It's a series of micro swicthes and motors - I'm going to persevere and have a go, will keep people posted and any suggestions welcome (other than take it to the dealer...).

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/ab344/tannaton/C70roof_zpsmmb4gjqu.jpg

MikeS100

Mar 28th, 2015, 22:38

First things first, replace the main roof control module in the boot. I had the same issue with the windows not dropping, no chime and no heated rear window and replacing this module solved the problems. About £1200 for a new module but second hand they're about £100-£150. The only issue is you are supposed to get it programmed in to the car after fitting before you try to operate the roof, but if you're handy with Vida you might be able to do it yourself.

Once you get that changed you might find everything starts working as it should. Certainly worth doing that first before you start trying to change the switches in my opinion.

Colmac

Mar 30th, 2015, 05:29

It is a pity the roof could not be made into a fully manual operation, junking all those problematic electrics and sensors.
I am sure most people wouldn't mind spending 5 mins lowering/raising the roof manually, especially if it saved the car being scrapped.
I get depressed thinking my car may become a scrapper because of the cost of a roof problem.
Colmac.

Austin160

Mar 30th, 2015, 09:44

Now someone with more experience than me is going to better advise on this. The car was supplied with a very crude Allen key type tool (often missing from the glove box wallet) for manually winding the failed hood into a completed operation position - so I understand.
Now if the same size Allen key was used in say a portable cordless drill, can the operation of the roof be taken through its full cycle - down and up again? If so, for what difference it makes - how long does it take?
Personally, I've always preferred the simple approach of manually operated roofs which seem to take no more than 30 seconds to do and not too much physical effort, and no worries. Electric roofs - well impressive to the passer by, but a constant worry to the owner who lives with the thought that one day it might just fail to impress!

S1_RS

Mar 30th, 2015, 11:37

Is it not possible to do away with all the logic and associated micros switches and manually operate each stage. Surely as long as the motors all work you can wire them to some switch gear and relays. You would need to operate them in the correct order but it would save either an expensive bill or at worst, scrappage!

happy diver

Mar 30th, 2015, 13:03

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=115503

Colmac

Mar 31st, 2015, 04:46

Does anyone out there no the Volvo Part Number for the cranked emergency roof opening/Closing tool.
I have the "T" shaped one.
While not wishing to tempt fate when all is well, I could really do with one, just in case!
Colmac

Austin160

Mar 31st, 2015, 09:42

Hello Colmac. I think they are cheap enough to buy. Just try FRF Volvo -Swansea and I'm sure the nice chaps there will help you out ( just mention this forum). I think you will find it is a cranked Allen key - size evades me but it's quite small. Once you have it then get yourself the same size of Allen key which you can cut to fit into your cordless drill - which you save you half a day of winding! Let us know what the size is if you could. Such information will help the rest, but of course someone on here is likely to tell you anyway.

Jturne

Apr 1st, 2015, 00:31

My 1999 C70 has only 32,000 miles but convertible top electric motors, etc. have crashed. Has anyone ever heard of converting the raising and lowering to a manual operation to avoid huge expense to repair? Has anyone got any tips or suggestions if such a conversion is possible?

Colmac

Apr 1st, 2015, 16:30

Over 9000 people have viewed this thread to date. There must be a lot of worried owners out there!
If a manual conversion could be found it would increase the value of our vehicles
no end. It would remove that constant fear of roof failure and they could then become a classic of the future, not a liability.
Colmac.

Tannaton

Apr 1st, 2015, 17:41

I'm guessing a manual conversion would be possible but you would need to fabricate/devise a means of locking the roof cover at the back and locking the roof to the windscreen header rail. My Jaguar XJS Convertible had an electric roof but you had to lock the roof to the windscreen rail manually with some simple latches. I used to have an MGF also and this had simple latches that could maybe be used?

HOWEVER.... I believe that the roof mechanism is actually much simpler than people believe and in most cases, the faults that cause it to stop working are trivial and low cost to fix on a DIY basis (micro-switches). Over Easter I'm planning to do some reading and properly get my head around how the roof works and how to diagnose faults. I may be eating humble pie in a few week's time - I will post...

Tannaton

Apr 1st, 2015, 17:44

You need to get the car to a dealer or Independent Volvo specialist who as VIDA or similar - the roof ECU does log faults and should be able to tell you why it no longer works. It's work spending £50 or so to know whether it's a simple microswicth or mortgage needed job....

Aladdin

Apr 6th, 2015, 23:26

My tonneau cover stopped working now the roof switch is unresponsive, I managed to open the boot and close the roof manually. I am also of the opinion that if I can add a switch panel and wire each motor bypassing the micro switches, I could operate each motor in turn.

Thoughts?

krussel

Apr 7th, 2015, 19:22

Thoughts?

That prob is possible but I recon that would be more involved work than having the codes read and tracing down the problem with the roof.

Perhaps a 2nd hand Module / a couple of micro switches and a recab may be all you need.

Tannaton

Apr 7th, 2015, 20:12

I've been doing a bit more reading and experimenting. The main problem that I face at the moment is that although VIDA can read all of the values of the switches and sensors/potentiometers in the roof system - to program it you need the old Volvo Scan Tool (VST). If you replace the roof ECU, sensors or do any work you may need to recaliberate the roof for it to work properley.

I don't know much about the Volvo Scan Tool - are there any other third party systems that can do the same job? I gather that as it was proprietory Volvo hardware (not PC based) very few people have them outside of the dealer network.

Colmac

Apr 8th, 2015, 00:18

If I were an engineer, which I Am not, I would be looking at it from a completely manual point of view.
Electronics and computers = big bucks for main dealers and problems for DIY mechanics.
How much effort would it have been for Volvo to design a robust manual system instead of the flimsy two tool operation we got.
Colmac

happy diver

Apr 8th, 2015, 07:43

http://www.google.com.au/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&frm=1&source=web&cd=1&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CB0QFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fen.wikipedia.org%2Fwiki%2FThatchi ng&ei=ys0kVeLPE8Lt8gWt8IGQDA&usg=AFQjCNG3uvPACcpzhs6K5SPo27MniY62FQ&sig2=bpDKIsRoYlTJgQ-kNWuU0A

Tannaton

Apr 8th, 2015, 14:10

The problem with electronics and computers is - unlike mechanical systems - you can't just look at them and decipher how they work and why they are broken. If you do understand them - they are easy - but if you don't it's witchcraft. The problem i think with the C70 roof is that it is not well documented and the dealers work with them so infrequently that they don't become "expert" at it.

krussel

Apr 8th, 2015, 19:18

Even the SC901 stereo knows if the hood is up or down and adjusts the feq accordingly.

What chance do you have.

Tannaton

Apr 9th, 2015, 00:04

Even the SC901 stereo knows if the hood is up or down and adjusts the feq accordingly.

What chance do you have.

A good chance I think (or maybe hope?) - because it's all 90s electronics there is a signal wire from the roof ecu for each command rather than it all being on a data bus or network.

The pinouts and colours of the wires are documented in VIDA. When the Roof is down it changes the eq on the SC901, disables the rear heated window, disables the air con compressor and switches the fan off if it is in auto mode.

Hoping to get a good weekend on it soon so I can bore you all with my findings.

Marcetta

Apr 25th, 2015, 18:13

Mine is a 2013 hardtop, It goes down fine, but when I tried to put it up the other day the trunk latch sensor was not sensing that the trunk was closed and it wouldn't let me close it. It was definetly closed. After quite a while of opening and shutting the trunk and trying two different key fobs to see if the trunk latch worked (it did not with the fob) it finally sensed it was closed. And I was able to put the top up as usual. Now I'm scared to put the top down. We have no idea how to put a 2013 hardtop up manually despite calling the dealership and searching the web. A sensor problem maybe? Any idea how much it would cost to fix a sensor for a trunk latch, there are no other problems within the car that I've noticed. Is it as simple as a fuse? I wish.

Clan

Apr 25th, 2015, 18:50

This is a specialist job very complex logic and about 17 sensors involved , when they read the stored fault codes it should lead them straight to it . but they need to see the logic diagrams to see which sensors are on and off when they should be ..

Marcetta

Apr 25th, 2015, 19:20

Looks like a 2 hour drive to the dealership....

Clan

Apr 25th, 2015, 19:28

Looks like a 2 hour drive to the dealership....

Its not something they can fix whilst you wait , i would explain the situation and they can get some parts in ready .. a head start ..

C70 Roof problems [Archive] - Volvo Owners Club Forum (2023)

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